No matter. I’m well ahead of the crowd.
A couple behind me whispers. They sound mighty impressed. They have, I overhear, just been to Prambanan. I mean, have you even heard of Prambanan?
But Borobudur – itself deserving more visitors than it gets – overshadows Yogyakarta’s other prime attraction, Prambunan. Borobudur, it must be said, is – even through early morning mists – every bit as wondrous as Cambodia’s Angkor Wat, Burma’s Bagan ruins, the ancient cities of Sri Lanka or Peru’s famed Macchu Pichu. But it’s also much less visited. Worth noting, too, is the fact this vast Buddhist relic is proudly exhibited in an Islamic country.
Ninety minutes away is another of Indonesia’s historic gems, honouring one more of the world’s great religions: Hinduism. Prambanan, a sprawling ninth-century temple complex, is – in the eyes of many who behold it – every bit as awesome as nearby Borobudur.
Prambanan is all but a secret. So great is foreigners’ awareness of Borobudur that Prambanan is unfairly overlooked. According to Indonesian tourism officials, many visitors arrive not even knowing it exists. This, however, is slowly changing. These two complexes – monuments to two faiths that together held local sway before Islam gained its following – are commonly accessed as side-trips from Bali.
In central Java, Yogyakarta is one of Indonesia’s major cities. It has numerous good hotels (keep Phoenix, Novotel and Ibis in mind) and restaurants, modern shopping malls and traditional markets.
The main drag, Jalan Malioboro, is a busy city street with malls and hundreds of shops selling some of Southeast Asia’s cheapest fashions and other items.
Footpaths are cluttered with stalls hawking much the same stock but bargaining is expected. Tempting aromas waft from restaurants, including many selling spicy nasi Padang fare that is nationally celebrated. Major attractions in the city include the Kraton, the 250 year-old palace compound of Yogyakarta’s sultans, where tours take visitors through a succession of exhibitions and pavilions.
Pivotal in Indonesia’s independence struggle, Yogyakarta and nearby areas also are the heartland of Javanese culture. Batik and silverware workshops and galleries dot the city (though, conveniently, they’re often grouped together).
Traditional wayang puppets are in demand as souvenirs (with the best at the city’s puppetry schools).Performances of shadow puppetry, gamelan music and classical dance, including Ramayana ballet, are diversions included on many an itinerary.
However, it is Borobudur – as well as, increasingly, Prambanan – that lures most visitors here. Each is about an hour’s drive from the city, with hotel cars and taxis plentiful. Routes pass through farmland and pretty rural villages.
Borobudur – on a 200 square metre base – is the world’s largest Buddhist stupa. Built between about 750 AD and 850 AD, it is about 300 years older than many of Angkor Wat’s structures. Throughout the pyramid-like structure’s five levels, symbolising three spheres of Buddhism, are elaborate carvings along with bas reliefs. These create a virtual guidebook-in-stone to Mahayana Buddhism.
In the shape of a mandala (a circular Buddhist design symbolising the universe) Borobudur’s construction required an army of thousands of labourers (and, some contend, slaves). Carvers and other skilled craftsmen worked for decades on ornate artwork.
On upper terraces are numerous stupaswithin-a-stupa, shaped like inverted lotus blossoms.
Borobudur was all but forgotten, largely buried under volcanic ash, until the 19th century. A series of restoration projects brought it to its present state using similar techniques to those employed at Angkor Wat: strewn stones were numbered and cleaned before reconstruction of collapsed areas. To avoid damage during tropical storms, a reinforced foundation with adequate drainage has been placed in modern times under much of Borobudur.
Prambanan’s temples, in a different direction from central Yogyakarta, are no less impressive. Experts believe some may still lie buried beneath nearby farmland on the surrounding Prambanan Plain. According to some archaeologists, the dominant and central Shiva Temple, soaring 47 metres high, is the world’s best example of Hindu art – including multitudinous examples in India. The Brahma and Vishnu temples flank the Shiva Temple with an abundance of smaller but richly decorated temples – about 250 in all – scattered nearby.
Getting There
From Kuala Lumpur, Air Asia (airasia.com) flies direct to Yogyakjarta; Malaysia Airlines (malaysiaairlines.com) and Garuda (www.garuda-indonesia. com) serve Jakarta with domestic onnections. For more information, visit indonesia-tourism.com
Where to Stay:
Losari Spa Retreat & Coffee Plantation is a restored Dutch colonial plantation, where you can stay in one of 24 luxury villas reconstructed from original native architecture. Losari’s excursion program to cultural and historical sites of Java include watching the sunrise at Borobudur and a ride through rice fields and mountains on a cog steam train.
Visit www.losaricoffeeplantation.com for more information.